I have had this little fella for 3 weeks for with another turtle, the other one seemed to disappear and well im trying to take care of this one to maximum effort, This little fella doesnt want to eat his pellets, anyone help?
It’s normal for a new arrival to be stressed and not eat. But I think in your case you may need to reevaluate your care and setup. This is what you need to get started with a Red Ear Slider
1.You need the biggest tank you can afford upfront. A good rule of thumb is 10g per inch of shell, so no a 10g would not be fine unless you have a 1in hatchling, but it won’t last you long so it doesn’t make sense to buy small. Red Ear’s can easily grow 12 in or more with proper care! If you can’t afford a large tank, there are other options, a kiddie pool, a preformed pond liner, a rubber maid tote etc. Turtle tanks / the side cut out is a waste of money. Also Sliders like deep water so fill the tank!
2. You need a UVA/UVB light the box must say UVB and it must emit at least 5% UVB but 10% is best.
3. You need a Heat/Basking lamp, this can be a clamp lamp from a hardware store for 5 bucks and a household bulb.
4. You need a Basking spot. This needs to be a place for the turtle to come completly out of the water to dry off and sun himself. You can use a log, a platform, a dock, a ramp, etc as long as the turtle can fit on it comfortably.
5. You need good filtration. Turtles are messy. Shoot for 2x the gallon size but more is good too. For example if you have a 40g get a filter made for an 80g or bigger.
6. Submersible heater. Depending on where you live, you may need a heater, the water temps should be mid to high 70’s if you cannot achieve this w/out a heater, then get one.
7. A thermometer so you can accurately monitor the temps.
8. Substrate, you may use substrate but do not buy gravel!! Turtles can and will eat it. Usually with dire consequences. A good alternative is river rock bigger than the turtles head upgrading if needed.
9. Decorations/plants (llive or real as long as not toxic see safe plants under food below) a place to hide. This are not absolutly needed but plants and other hiding places reduces stress.
10. A good herp vet. If you want to be a responsible pet owner, you need a good vet BEFORE trouble happens. http://www.nytts.org/nytts/helpnet.htm…..
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vets_for_h… These links will help you find a good one.
11. Food, turtles need a varied diet and need to be fed in the water;
Hatchlings should be fed everyday for the first year of their lives. They should be given as much as they can eat in 10 to 15 mins time or as much as you could fit into their head if hollow. You can feed them all of it at once or you can slit it up into 2 feedings.
Hatchlings tend to be more Carnivorous than adults, so make sure to check out the suggestions of live and protein-rich foods below for how to supplement accordingly. (Make sure you still give fruits and veggies at this stage!)
Once your turtle reaches the 4″ mark, we recommend that you change their feeding schedule to every other day. Giving them greens or live plants in between.
Adults tend to become more Omnivorous, so make sure to check out the suggestions of fruits and vegetables below.
Vitamins and Calcium
You should supplement your turtle’s diet with both vitamins and calcium, every third feeding or once a week. To give them vitamins many people will give them a Vitamin Bath once a week. You can also either soak the pellets in a liquid vitamin or dampen them and roll them in a powder vitamin before feeding.
It is recommended you have a light that supplies UVA and at the very least a 5.0 UVB output. The UVB is necessary for the absorption of calcium and vitamin D3. Turtles need both calcium and Vitamin D3 for strong bones and shells.
**Feeding Tip Feedings should be done in a separate container so that you do not have to frequently change the water nor the filter media.
Common Diet Errors
Feeding Cat or Dog Food
Despite what some pet store employees may tell you, turtles should not be fed dog or cat food (Sounds insane, but we’ve heard it!)
Pellet Only Diets
Pellets provide many benefits, but variety is key!
Supplement their diet with veggies, live foods and some fruits. Check out our safe list below.
Giving in to Beggars
Turtles will always beg whether you give in or not- they know you are the supplier of food!
Supplement between feedings with greens or live foods they have to chase to eat. ( Iceberg lettuce is a common filler that doesn’t contain much nutritional value, but will keep them content.)
Safe Feeding List
Commercial Foods (This is just a few of them on the market)
* Tetra Reptomin
* ZooMed’s Aquatic Turtle Food
* Exo Terra
* Wardley’s Reptile Premium Sticks
* HBH Turtle Bites
Frozen/Canned (For treats)
* Spirulina-enriched Brine Shrimp
* ZooMed’s Can O’Crickets, Grasshoppers, or Meal Worms
Live Foods (Carnivorous)
* Guppies or Rosies Reds (no goldfish they are too fatty and have very little nutritional value)
* Crickets (Gut-Loaded)
* Pinhead Crickets (for smaller turtles)
* Earthworms, Night Crawlers
* Ghost Shrimp
* Aquatic Snails/Apple Snails
* Wax Worms, Super Worms
**Be careful about Wild-Caught foods, they can carry parasites that can be transferred to your turtle. Freezing Wild-Caught foods for a month will help to kill off some parasites.
Fruits (small amounts for treats only)
**Should be cut up in small, bite-size or match-like sticks that will be easy for the turtle to bite into and not choke on.
* Greens- Red Leaf, Romaine, Collards, Kale, Dandelion Greens
**Stay away from Spinach. Make sure to cut the veggies in bite-size or match-like sticks so your turtle can eat them easily. Iceberg lettuce is a good filler, but contains little/no nutritional value!
* Water Hyacinth
* Water Lettuce
* Water Lily
12. A good forum where you can get advice, support and help. I’m partial to the one I belong to lol http://www.turtleexchange.com/forum/inde…
Also, I really advise you to find the other missing turtle!
They will not eat if it’s too cold. You need a thermometer and a heater. Get the temp up to around 78degrees. Also make sure there is a basking spot to get completely out of the water with a heat and uvb bulb. I don’t know what kind of turtle you have, but check out this site for more info on turtles www.redearslider.com also the turtle talk forum within that site has info on all kinds of turtles and tortoises.
get live feeders, my turtle cannot resist them, then throw in pellets here and there, once his appetite comes back, he may eat them, and pellets are not the only thing you shouldd feed him, also veggies, try romaine, but not a lot, it’s addictive. collards dandelion greens kale, they eat all that stuff. one thing i have yet to try isx dry shrimp, i heard they really like them, but are only to be sparingly be fed, as they may refuse other foods, look for online caresheets, like on repticzone.com. hope this helps. oh yeah because of the winter it may be slowing down on eating, just raise the temps a little
If it is a water turtle, you need to heat the water, if it is a land turtle you need a heat lamp without heat they can’t digest their food. They are reptiles and are cold blooded, if you provide heated water or a heat lamp, they can thermal regulate themselves.
Did you get your turtle in Chinatown?
your turtle might not like the pellets you are feeding him. turtles can be very picky. try giving him some fruits and veggies. bannanas and blueberrys seem to be my turtles favorite.
try giving the turtle fish food..that is what i feed my baby red eared slider
you don’t say what kind of set up you have for the turtle.
do you have a water heater in the water?
do you have a place for him to get out of the water?
do you have a lamp that provides heat?
if they aren’t warm enough they won’t eat. do you have proper water conditions?